The Evolution and History of French
Bread
In
1788 and 1789, speculation in the movement, storage and sale of grains combined
with adverse weather conditions led to a severe bread shortage throughout
France. Prices for this staple increased beyond affordability, especially for
the poor and peasant classes. While the rich had plenty of fine bread made from
pure white flour, the poor either starved or subsisted on an inferior product
made from poorly milled bran grains.
Mass
starvation eventually provoked revolution. The storming of the Bastille was
more a call for bread than it was an uprising to free enemies of the crown. The
people cried out for bread and searched the bakeries to no avail. There was no
bread.
Once
calm was restored, the constituent assembly authorized bakers to make only one
kind of bread – "bread of equality " (pain d' egalite) – made from
flour that was ¾ wheat and ¼ rye with the bran included. White flours were
banned and rationing was introduced. The victory of the republic and the
abolition of feudal priviledges did permit the return of white breads to the
table. It eventually became the everyday bread.
After
Napoleon seized power, he was determined not to make the same mistakes made by
his predecessors. His government issued decrees that established standards for
French bread, specifying ingredients and baking methods. These Napoleonic
decrees also elevated the status of professional bakers; establishing quality
control for flour milling, mixing, and dough kneading; and ended the
speculation in grains by farmers and commodity brokers.
Later,
governments added to the Napoleonic decrees, specifying ways to knead and
aerate the dough and establishing shape and size criteria for any loaf
designated an authentic French baguette.
Modern Times
The Victory of Wheat
Beginning
in the 19th century with all the advances that came with it, the advancement of
technology helped the harvest. Bread became more accessible, especially for
farmers who increased their consumption. Cooking in the communal ovens
decreased, to the delight of the bakers who are now recognized as a separate
entity.
In
the early 20th century, techniques are developed where slow fermentation is
100% guaranteed by the yeast. The kneading is short, the shape is long, and the
dough irregularly aerated. We are in 1920, and the baguette is born. Its
reputation will precede it around the world.
If
the French are making progress in the quality of their breads they are
consuming less of them in favor of meat. Bread, up until that time the staple
diet, lost some of its prestige. The post war period gave energy to people's
imagination. The techniques again improved, efficiency and profitability became
important, and bread became less authentic and 'maison.' However, since the 80s
the French once again have a taste for natural products. House breads have
returned to their rightful place. The search for variety in the diet and the
willingness of bakers to create original products has helped the sales of
specialty breads. After the whole story, it is finally wheat that won. Today,
it is the most cultivated grain in the world.
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